Sam # 39; s Xpress Car Wash - June 5, 2016
This page is updated After watching've engine replacement check my last engine swap page.
Just a few hundred miles short of 80K my 1999 Subaru Impreza 2 5RS developed severe blow rod on its stock motor He had the engine EJ25 stock 2 5liter single camshaft September 7 1 compression ring naturally aspirated and finished all my plans to further improve powerplant that I was shocked to find that the prices for the EJ25 are roughly as follows 4500NEW 3000Subaru remanufactured Longblock 2995Rebuilt 600-1600 used 60 - 100k miles.
Disappointed by the engine, and shocked prices, I decided it was time to take this piece of garbage in my engine bay and fall into something real engine that not only last much longer than my old engine but also my car really, really fast.
Since I was not about to replace a blown engine used with another, the same engine used, and there was no way to spend a few thousand dollars in any way I went about it, I decided that I needed a stronger Subaru power plant develops their 2 liter turbo engine for many years the two 5-liter naturally aspirated engine has much less development behind the United States, 2L turbocharged model found in the 2002 to 2005 US WRX is a 227 very respectable horsepower However, in Japan, very similar iteration of this block is 280HP at the door Stock totally this is accomplished thanks to a larger turbo, more fluid heads, different cam profile various injectors and better internal components while enabling further around earlier and better use of Japanese fuel available engines are made to fo nctionner on what is almost the equivalent of 95 96octane Swapping in the US in a US WRX engine in a non WRX car will net a car that is perfectly consistent with emiss ion testing, but the complex bundle of son the engine, it will take 45 hours of professional installation, at a cost of about 4000 from a Swap tuner shop in a Japanese JDM engine, however, will not only be much easier than wiring harness is smaller, simpler and separated from the rest of the car, but it can be done cheaper and make horse 53extra STOCK the downside is that there is no such thing as OBD2 Japan, compensation such exchange an instant failure with most computerized emission tests.
Since there are no emissions test where I live I half suspect very redneck trucks in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan will be on the roads as they introduce there the JDM motor was my first choice for my car a 1999 model, I was very lucky to find a JDM engine 1999 This simplifies some wiring work like most of the connectors will be the same and the fuse box is also the same new engine is a 1999 EJ207 JDM WRX Type RA R Ace filtered, the engine code EJ207DW1KE.
2 liter turbocharged 4 cylinder boxer engine VF29 Turbo operation 15PSI, 8-1 compression.
factory specifications of 280HP 6500rpm, torque 260ft 4,000rpm, 8250rpm redline.
Interestingly, almost all Subaru engines are interchangeable Mechanically, this engine bolted up my chassis requires only the crossbar before the donor car turbo The electrical part of it, however, is another story.
All modern engines are operated by a control unit of the engine ECU The ECU monitors all parameters of the air intake engine, the air-fuel ratio, exhaust, hitting crank position, water temperature oil, etc. etc. etc. and control all aspects of the fuel cut engine idling, governor, injector duty cycle, the air-fuel ratio, etc. It also receives data from the rest of the ignition of the car, air conditioning, alarm and outputs of the dashboard data and elsewhere therefore it is a lot of coming in a son of the ECU Unfortunately different engines and different UCE sometimes use the same engine uses different ECUs and even between an Impreza 1999 2 5 RS and WRX in 1999 the differences are quite significant.
Thus, for the Japanese motor work inside of my American car, I need to Japanese and Japanese ECU wiring harness is in the photo left Fortunately, even though the bulk harness consists of hundreds of son for almost everything electrical on the car, I'm concerned with the control part of the engine of it the engine harness everything else to go for it, the harness is first Split.
Then all the ECU son are plotted at their ends together with adhesive tape and labeled on their end connectors.
And all unnecessary son are cut There are many more non-neighboring ECU son in the car as the son of the engine harness.
This leaves us with just the engine harness This is especially needed ECU to control the motor.
It took 7 hours of solid work process is as follows Once every son were free, I wanted to all son from ECU plugs and sealed together I kept taping all ECUs son all that I have separated the son who did not enter the ECU until every son were executed in their respective sheets There I tagged every son of the ECU, then cut and removed everything that did not Ecu been linked reasoning is simple if it does not go into the harness of the ECU, then it goes into the rest of the car since everything is I replaced the engine, there is no reason to replace the one of the other son it was not difficult, but it took a very long time and a lot of concentration and discipline If you added it would be time to take a little extra Ritalin just a joke.
I do not believe that this swap would be possible without a wiring diagram; the son up in the ECU of the dashboard and the fuse box go to the plugs that do not necessarily correspond with the RS taken, so I can not use the JDM harness on the dashboard I do not want it is a wiring nightmare not understand from just plugs RS plugs match it with the RS and the wiring diagrams JDM I can only draw the son of RS dashboard ECU and splices in the JDM ECU but only two made much easier in the engine harness are different aT MT neutral position switch and identification MT aT I reuse these 4 son leaves the engine and do not go in the ECU are Ignition yellow red power, black ground and a thin red white and a red one green Those who go into the dashboard below, for comparison purposes, the stock ECU 2 5RS left and notice how ECU JDM size fic he, the shape and geometry of the pins are different mount points are mirror images of another issue RHD.
This is the identification of the ECU AE480 Version 5 WRX Type RA.
To integrate the two cable harnesses in the car, it is necessary to have access to the stock wiring harness; this is done by removing the ECU take the carpet Unbolt ECU plate, remove ECU, remove the caps Unfortunately, it is necessary to remove the air conditioning box; this requires purging AC lines and remove the AC unit inside the car Once done the heater core is still a bit on the way, but I decided to make my wiring without removing ; it saves me the time and trouble of removing the entire dashboard retrospect, it may not have been much easier, if at all, but it worked.
With the air conditioning unit on the rightmost of firewall feed through is pushed back into the cockpit and son who go this engine harness to the ECU are cut something specific to motor 2 5RS can be removed, while from the fuse box, dashboard, fuel pump, relay, etc. must be spliced into the harness JDM I made this MATRIX PINOUT to make my job easier; each sensor connector is named, identified and put next to the location of the cap on the JDM ECU Sounds easy, right.
With JDM harness next car son are cut, stripped, twisted together, welded and heat-shrinkable tubing is used to insulate, it is good not to cut all son to the same length, if not all joints bulge on the middle.
Below harness JDM left next to the car, son and plugs being spliced Bottom Right; JDM car interior harness, most son and spliced plugs, caps remaining in the passenger seat.
It took 2 whole days to complete the wiring drive; between the son that did not exist in the 2 5RS wiring diagram, the son who did not appear in the JDM scheme caps that matched but had son in different places, taken not over the car, the son that did not exist in the JDM ECU at all, the last two days in one of the most frustrating tasks I have ever undertaken at some point in the exchange that I almost regretted start.
With all wiring is complete, the son of the shield are combined, glued, and the lid is put right Since the drive ECU hand rises that reflect the US mountains, it is impossible to screw it down to instead, I keep the lid in place security at the moment, but I will look for a more permanent solution next time I'm down there.
The 2 son 5RS following ECU do not appear to go anywhere in the ECU JDM.
Here you can see the installation of the engine completed Notice the water intercooler spray nozzles on the diffuser plate of the intercooler under the bonnet scoop and dual water pump JDM pump bottle washer 2 sprays to the intercooler reduce heat soak.
Virtually all Subaru engines can be put into any chassis Subaru's engine bolts to the transmission, engine mounts, etc. etc. There are only 3 sticky points.
1- The steering lines should be slightly bent to fit around the larger DOHC SOHC heads vs The power steering pump is not the same, and JDM lines fails due to the fact that they are for RHD 2- the vehicle cruise control unit does not fit into the downspout and turbocharger to its location, it had to be moved with customized media 3- stabilizer bar stock of the facade will not remove the front cross turbo where the top pipe goes, I did not know it and tore a roll bar bush shortly after the solution is to buy a swaybar JDM as Cusco 4 air conditioning compressor in the JDM engine is shorter than USDM will not match the USDM lines have a connection bolt that does not work go with the JDM mounting no solution for this but I may need a connector or JDM WRX air pump.
This was very direct; the son are executed through the firewall to their good location, glued together, covered with wire loom and the grommet was installed again some notes.
1- The rubber seal had to be divided in the middle to allow the son to go, I taped back together when done 2- Every son should be run as far as possible from the turbo, I wrapped the downspout into a film header and installed the turbo heat shield to further reduce the chances of any merger son can see the new cruise control support on the images below.
The added power of this swap can reach very high speeds, very quickly with the brakes of stock, any form of spirited driving generally led brake fade than blued rotors and pads is passed soon emerged that smoke even my updated stock brakes are not adequate for this level of power, the brakes have been upgraded by exchanging WRX brakes front and Legacy Turbo brakes rear brakes use WRX Racing slotted rotors and back are cross drilled Brembo rotors are ventilated and two Carbotech Bobcat ceramic street track pads are used all around before cooling is further improved by updating air ducts I am now using calipers Subaru STI 4 pot for handling, I run heavy Whiteline swaybar endlinks around a 21mm cusco swaybar before a whiteline 18 - 24mm adjustable swaybar Rear set to 20 mm for driving every day Whiteline heavy duty carriers, and struts of the rear leg bar are KYB AGX adjustable gas springs are sport HR springs.
Here is a list of improvements that I installed Click one of them to see a picture of the part in the car.
TSI drive Group N Hardened engine mounts TSI group N group Hardened TSI mounting Transmission N Hardened Location TSI judgment stainless steel clutch line TSI short range Shifter Whiteline steering rack bushings Whiteline rear differentials sockets before the speed change ring Kartboy hardened and ACT rear wheel 13 pounds lighter organic Exedy clutch slips like crazy Bad choice for a car 300 HP silicone turbocharger inlet pipe Perrin knife blade throttle body throttle and polished Harbor identified and polite, intake manifold powder coating.
Handling Cusco 21mm before swaybar Whiteline polyurethane bushings swaybar before heavy Whiteline front end bar rocking connects swaybar adjustable rear Whiteline 18-22mm heavy Whiteline Whiteline swaybar heavy media connects rear end of the rear stabilizer bar TSI Strut Tower Bar SPT before Strut Tower Bar KYB AGX shocks rear adjustable gas Camber alignment bolts before Camber characteristics of the 3degrees maxed on Toe stock bolts before zero before Caster March 2 -1 degrees back Camber, Toe before zero.
Brakes STI 4-Pot Front brake WRX Race slot brake rotors JDM rear brakes WRX with Legacy Turbo Vented cross drilled rear discs Carbotech brake pads Bobcat around super stainless steel brake lines ATE Blue brakes front brake fluid are cooled by air ducts installed on the front bumper.
Checked all vacuum lines, electrical connections, power steering lines, cooling fluid lines, fuel lines, wastegate, intercooler, etc. fluids checked and filled power steering fluid, engine oil, fuel, coolant Turn ignition key turned to oN, relay began, gauge lights came on, the fuel pump came on the Walbro 255LPH is strong by turning the ignition key; the engine back maybe 6 times and BEGINNINGS up Allow the engine to idle for a few minutes; many smoke fluid dripping on the exhaust rooms This smoke went out for a while after the turbo heated After checking the fans thermostat and radiator both worked, up to speed, and 'drove around for a bit first impressions stimulate gently out part throttle; exhaust sounds good; not too strong, pleasant soft rumble noise sound turbo is quite remarkable in the car; a wonderful turbine like whining that gives way to a breath when I get up the throttle the car is perfectly drivable, EGTS are low and the boost gauge PLANE near zero with a light application of the throttle over-boost gas Mash the gas pedal; first observation throttle response is nearly as fast as the old engine 2 5L NA Lag is certainly noticeable turbo starts to make a positive pressure somewhere in the low range of 2000rpm, but the real power is not really there to 0 5ATM Initially the 2 5RS feels faster because there is zero waiting time; when the gas pedal down, it speeds and fast turbo engine takes a good second acceleration typical engine 4 cylinders OK before it really either go However, around 0 SAINT ST 5ATM The gauge needle boost almost instantly jumps to 2 to 1 January 3Atmospheres 18PSI or with a smooth thrust acceleration password OK to very good, WOW very impressive the engine continues to pull hard all the way in the 7000s and the RPM limiter of 8000rpm speed rotating gears otherwise constantly short, powerful thrust more importantly, the engine continues to fire, HARD, well into triple digit speeds This is, by far, the fastest car that I have ever driven, and one of the fastest I've even been.
Here are some ACTUAL tests, carried out with snow tires, full interior, a full tank of gas, spare wheel, car jack and tools in the trunk, and a passenger.
0 - 100 km H 0 - 62mph; April 07 seconds what is fast Faster than a Ferrari 360 Modena, faster than a Corvette Z06, faster than a Ferrari 550Maranello.
April 1, 12 miles 61 seconds 113MPH launched from 4000RPM Its decent, hopefully hit 11s with a larger turbo.
No clutch air conditioning never designed for this power will slip and burn on a hard launch If it didn t, the transmission would probably break everything else seems to work.
Update 10000 miles and still driven than ever to this day, I ran a car that was faster in a straight line; a 500HP Mustang.
First and foremost I would like to thank Tim Sanderson who made the mechanical aspect of raising swap the old engine crossmember, to the new by adapting all lines and accessories, etc. Tim is an exceptional mechanic who lives near Milwaukee, WI If you need to work on your car, it's my first recommendation Thanks goes to Myles Hechtman fine Line Imports FLI provided the engine for my trade and my fuel pump, the rear brakes, radiator and a clutch I'm not for help but Myles was very helpful with my endless questions on the exchange and what would or would not be suitable if you plan an engine change along the lines of what I was doing here, be sure to FLI give a call, ask Myles, and tell Sam sent you; Thank you to Carl Seidel for all the exceptional port and polish job on the engine manifold, exhaust manifolds and throttle body I d also like to thank Robert Shmitt and his brother to give me a hand with the exchange, to Hugo let me stay on while I worked on the car, and Kelly Drews to give me a ride and stick around when it was 100F and there was nothing to do but watch me cut son for 7 hours a huge thank you to all the guys NASIOC, turbosubysteve especially with its 2 November monster JDM-traded, for all technical information before I could have done.
First autocross with the car; suspension stock swaybars upgraded, too horses I struggled to control the car smoothly to a fast race; it happens too fast on the straight corner for me without slipping, and increase in cornering always wanted to say tire spin on this video you can see a beautiful Wipeout in the slalom and then from the last corner, I get on gas and smoke the tires on the capture frame on the straight nothing like a 4 wheel burnout.
I drove a little less than 14,000 miles in just under eight months June 27, 2005 to February 18, 2006 on my JDM WRX RA Version 5 Engine The engine was bought used, with about 50thousand miles or on it following the link above you want to see what changes have been made to this essence, I ran the original engine, with all internal original features original turbocharged and I put my intercooler for the high STI USDM more mount intercooler and the car equipped with a stainless steel 3 turbo exhaust the exhaust free flowing caused the engine to rise slightly higher than normal; In general, I would see 17PSI while the engine must be done about 15PSI After a complete and Polish port on all intake and exhaust components less turbo engine dope about 22PSI, without any kind of controller The boost aftermarket ECU stock didn t seem to care; I never cut known fuel, and fuel air ratio, exhaust gas temperature and knock sensor activity were all in the specifications that I have to run the highest octane fuel on it to manage levels heightening without seeing ignition timing delayed one day after driving 200 miles in below 0F -20 ° C and below the time flashed the light oil and I realized the engine had consumed more 4 liters of oil it didn t seem to be a smoke or exhaust leaks under the car I overcame the oil out, drove another 100 miles, and the dip stick was shot with a brown foamy mess out the probable cause of the dipstick tube is a blown head gasket compression and leak down test with the following results.
CYL1 March 3 CYL2 10 some leakage detected in the cyl3 of pvc 9 August some leakage detected in the pcv cyl4 August 17 a leak detected in the exhaust gas.
spec factory is 3 leak I think with these figures, it was time to crack the block and see what it looked like Here are the photos on the driver's side of the cylinder block 2 and 4 normal time looked away.
My Comments low compression test and high leakage of the exhaust side suggests a problem with the most likely engine heads that weren t properly seated valves because of carbon accumulated oil sludge and coolant can be seen on top of the piston; normally they are dry and covered with a thin layer of carbon, as was the case with the other side pistons 1 and 3 More importantly, pitting on the cylinder walls indicates that they have been damaged, I do not know the cause of it, it could be detonation, although I think that was not the case, because it was something I watched and watched perhaps the head gasket allowed to seep into cooling the combustion chamber and the cold coolant hit the walls of the hot roll and pitted somehow I am not entirely convinced by this explanation, but can t find better at this time may be, the solution was again sharpen the cylinder walls to past pitting corrosion, which would require a new set of pistons from the cylinders are now larger diameter These new pistons require new piston skirts, and the entire engine block should be disassembled, cleaned and reassembled professionally I'd pay for the lapping, pistons, s Kirts, new seals, new head bolts, and then I should still find a solution to deal with the leak exhaust side of the engine head.
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Sam car, a leak detected, heavy Whiteline, 21mm swaybar front engine continues firing.